Can you explain this or do you have a picture?

He means the piece that is connected to the throttle cable. If you look in the shaft you'll see a notch on the opposite end of the idle screw. That "slide"piece is supposed to go a specific way in the shaft, lining up the notch with the vertical gap on the slide or else the throttle will only close a little instead of the whole way and cause the motor to rev out of control.

Yes I love my PE20 it is almost bolt on and forget it. Used it on many different motors: 2stroke, 4stroke, scooters,mopeds, dirt bikes, up to 150cc and it worked for all of them with some tuning. I use it in conjunction with a Uni two stage filter. Battlescooter has them for $99.

Also add that the PC20 could be used in a larger displacement, what it was design for, like a 150cc. Many dirt bikes use this carb and it works fine.

After about 6 hours of tuning, I have concluded that modifying the stock snorkel hose to reach from carb to filter is a terrible idea. Got crazy wot bogging with every attempt to tune it. Finally just slapped the damn filter directly onto the carb and no more (wot) bog! I'm going to go with a metal 90 degree bend plumbing pipe, but I just wanted to drop some feedback bc I'm sure others are making the same mistake I was by running that rubber hose. I also found (with the ss throttle cable) that routing the throttle cable can make a pretty big difference in how it idles, and needless to say making sure the throttle is sitting in the carb properly. I have it running around the outside of the front seat bracket so nothing is putting pressure on the cable until I get my extension in. Looks kinda funny but I'll be damned if it doesnt run the best this way! This thread saved my life, so I'm just sending the love back out there.

Happy tuning all,
Michio

Icthin to grabbb a carb kitt

Just installed a PE20 to replace my PC and having idle issues. With the PC I just turned a/f screw till idle was highest then backed down with idle adjustment screw. I have the a/f screw on the PE20 out about 1 turn and have gone little over 1/2 turn more but the idle rises and falls, won't stay consistent. Any ideas?

Installed the Sheng Way PC20 that has been on my Met for over a year on another Met I am putting together and the issues are:
1) doesn't want to start at all without choking it and playing with the throttle
2)once it does start (choked) I can get it to somewhat run but only for a about 30 seconds before it will die.

Readjusted idle mixture to 1.5 turns out. The Met I'm putting it on has the same mods as mine so I had really expected it to work fine. It must be noted I replaced the gas tank, fuel lines and fuel filter on this Met, but not the fuel pump. When I started it for the first time last week with the stock carb it ran ok till about 1/4 throttle and then would just sputter. Any suggestions?

I took some time to ponder the situation last night and thought to myself, "Self, if it is only running when choked and continues to run when choked, then maybe the problem is not that it's not getting enough gas, maybe it's getting TOO MUCH air". So I decided to remove carb and manifold to check for a possible vacum leak. It had to be getting air from somewhere to continue running when air supply was restricted via choke. Sure enough, as I start to loosen the 2 bolts that attach the carb to manifold it becomes obvious that the threads in the carb on one bolt have come apart and I get a metal spiral from one that looks similar to a thread insert! I put a 10mm nut on the backside of both bolts, eliminating the need for the cheap ass threads in the carb and sure enough, she starts right up and with a little a/f mixture and idle adjustment, I take her for a spin! My conclusion: I should have never purchases a Sheng Way, should have went with a brand new Keihin. I have a Keihin PE20 on my Met now so at least I shouldn't have to go through this crap again.

big bore motor/ performance cam/jc flywheel
sheig way 38sj/88mj
two brothers exhaust
polini with stock rollers

fast take off,no bogs,but the exhaust pops alot from wot to close and also some around 30mph....
will the fuel/air ratio rid the pop

Not for me. I've had it under decell since installing PC20. It does it with my PE20 also. I don't know that this is correct, but I've just grown used to it. I know I don't have an exhaust leak and plug is not rich or lean.

probible got a intake or exhuast leak some where and thats why your having such a hard time rejetting and tuning

I believe the exhaust pops mean you're running rich, sir.

These carbs will always pop on decel. Completely normal as long as it's not popping during accel.

^^Truth^^

....okay, so I wasn't spot on. lol

Found this explanation for anybody else concerned...


http://forum.motorcycle-usa.com/default.aspx?f=18&m=398516


....which, for the people too lazy to click on, says:
"So, the popping you are hearing is not back-firing. It is a popping resonating sound generated by a lean condition on decel. When you suddenly close the throttle, the incoming air is choked off and the closed throttle also causes the bike to return to idle on the very lean idle circuit of the carb(s). However, momentum of the bike is actually "driving" the engine in a sense, and that engine is still spinning at rpm that needs far more gas than the closed throttle/carb can provide. The engine is still spinning but the incoming fuel rate is very low, until just enough builds up in the combustion chamber to "fire" on the exhaust stroke of the engine."

So I put on a black BOWLS throttle cable today... install was easy (since the carb was already mounted, the previous cable broke) but there is too much slack in the throttle.. This is not like the blue throttle cable that came with the carb, this does not have the metal piece in the middle to adjust it... I don't know how to take some of that slack away..

ideas?

Thanks