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Needs Training Wheels
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 Post subject: Re: Farang7's Not actual build thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 7:07 am 
wazzu_coug wrote:
You mentioned the brake switches, you reconnected those, right? That can make it not start. Checked valve clearances? Does the variation make a rattling noise when you twist it back and forth (on the bike)?


All the plugs are connected, though might have broken the left side so I should look into that. I have no done valve clearance. Do you have a link so I can see how this is done?

Do you mean twist the shaft back and forth?

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Junior Mint
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 Post subject: Re: Farang7's Not actual build thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 12:47 am 
The intake valve is known to sink into the head over time. Thus reducing the shim clearance. Here's the how to link: viewtopic.php?f=34&t=44778

And yes, with the drive face on the crankshaft, just twist it back and forth a bit. Any knocking sound? Could be the crank bearing making that noise.

Which carb are you using? The one from the ruckus engine or the one from the met? If I remember correctly, they're slightly different and have different jet sizes. Start with 75 main, 35 slowjet. Make sure you can see light through the slow jet (look through it like a telescope).


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 Post subject: Re: Farang7's Not actual build thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:09 am 
wazzu_coug wrote:
The intake valve is known to sink into the head over time. Thus reducing the shim clearance. Here's the how to link: viewtopic.php?f=34&t=44778

And yes, with the drive face on the crankshaft, just twist it back and forth a bit. Any knocking sound? Could be the crank bearing making that noise.

Which carb are you using? The one from the ruckus engine or the one from the met? If I remember correctly, they're slightly different and have different jet sizes. Start with 75 main, 35 slowjet. Make sure you can see light through the slow jet (look through it like a telescope).



BTW replacement motor supposedly only had 1200+ miles on it
Where do you buy replacement shims? No knocking around in the motor. Using Ruckus carb. but none of this matters because:

Spark is confirmed. Did a basic compression test on my buddy's his came around 90psi for 3 tries.
Mine was around 30psi for 3 tries. :cry: :cry: :cry: Please tell me this isn't what I think

Thanks for the help

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Junior Mint
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 Post subject: Re: Farang7's Not actual build thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:29 am 
Shims can be bought at any motorsports dealer/repair shop. Some will even let you trade sizes. If you're gonna buy one, get one slightly smaller at the same time for when it tightens again.

Bad compression generally means blown pistons rings. It's a cheap part to buy (you'll spend more in gaskets). But it involves complete disassembly of the engine. You'll need a flywheel puller (check your local auto parts for a "harmonic balancer" from their free loaner tools). You'll learn a ton, but even if you're new at it, shouldn't take more than 2 hours till you're cranking.


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 Post subject: Re: Farang7's Not actual build thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 12:13 pm 
wazzu_coug wrote:
Shims can be bought at any motorsports dealer/repair shop. Some will even let you trade sizes. If you're gonna buy one, get one slightly smaller at the same time for when it tightens again.

Bad compression generally means blown pistons rings. It's a cheap part to buy (you'll spend more in gaskets). But it involves complete disassembly of the engine. You'll need a flywheel puller (check your local auto parts for a "harmonic balancer" from their free loaner tools). You'll learn a ton, but even if you're new at it, shouldn't take more than 2 hours till you're cranking.


My friend recommended checking the exhaust clearance. I did so on both the bad ruckus motor and the "good" MET motor

Following measurements of shims using a composite plastic caliper
Ruckus:
IN 2.3mm
EX 2.3mm

MET:
IN 1.8mm (W/ 180 lasered on it)
EX 1.9mm

The MET motor was in-spec using feeler gauges with the spec being
VALVE CLEARANCE:
IN: 0.10 ± 0.03 mm (0.004 ± 0.001 in)
EX: 0.19 ± 0.03 mm (0.007 ± 0.001 in)

So I'm guessing now means on to blown rings? I really dont want to do this but if this is the only option .. guess I have to :meh: :pissed: :headbashing:

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 Post subject: Re: Farang7's Not actual build thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 7:19 am 
Any suggestions :meh:

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 Post subject: Re: Farang7's Not actual build thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 7:51 am 
How did you check compression ? If throttle is not held wide open, 90psi is fine.

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 Post subject: Re: Farang7's Not actual build thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 4:44 pm 
Happypancake! wrote:
How did you check compression ? If throttle is not held wide open, 90psi is fine.


A compression gauge screwed into the spark plug hole then tried to start it. My buddy was at 90! Mine was at 30

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 Post subject: Re: Farang7's Not actual build thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 10:27 am 
Ok past weekend I tried measuring for new shims for the valve adjustment.
PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I DID THIS WRONG

To find the new shim I used this formula: Current Shim + Thickest Feeler Gauge to fit(very tight) - Factory spec = New Shim Size

Factory specs (millimeters):
Intake: .10+/-.03 = .07-.13mm
Exhaust: .19 +/-.03 = .16-.22mm

The Shims in both Intake & Exhaust were both 1.80mm

Using Formula to find new shims

Intake:
1.8mm + .15mm - .10mm = 1.85mm (new shim)

Exhaust:
1.8mm + .25mm - .19mm = 1.86mm (new shim)

Does this sound correct? Could such a small amount (.05mm & .06mm) really cause it to have such low compression?

If its not this, I'm assuming its the rings which would require a complete engine tear down, which I don't know how to do.

Thanks for the help!

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