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Zombies
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 Post subject: MOD - Handlebar and Battlescooter Handlebar Clamp
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 10:13 pm 
OK, so I've been wanting to do this for a long time! Last week I finaly got around to ordering the handlebar clamp from Battlescooter and the y arived on Friday. I went out Friday evening looking for a new bar. I made the mistake of buying a cheap one, which got all scratched up from just handling it and test fitting the clamp. Went back out this morning and got myself a nice Pro Taper SE Schoolboy bar. Also og a set of Harri's grips and some grip glue.

So here's the bar, the bar clamp and gauge kit from BS, the grips, grip glue and bar ends (which I did not use)
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Here's a before look, now take off the battery cover and mirrors. Then use a razor to remove your old grips. If for some crazy reason you want to keep them, then go ahead and struggle for a couple of hours and then end up cutting them up anyways :D
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Remove the controls by unscrewing these two screws. Be carefull, take your time and use a proper screw driver. These bastards are on there good and they are very easy to strip. Take your time...
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Once you have the controls off, you're gonna have to file the little notch on each one that matches up on the stock bar. Use a round file or a dremel tool to remove them. I guess if you wanted to you could try to drill a matching hole in your new bar. Up to you!
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Next you'll need to remove the Speedo. Unbolt the 2 8mm bolts, save the two gaskets they're in, you can reuse them, then remove the speedo cable.
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Then you'll need to use a hacksaw or dremel tool to free the cables from their little prison. Then remove the blinker indicator light by removing the lens cap.
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Now read all the Japanese instructions... type them out into babelfish if your Japanese is rusty... then bust out a 14mm wrench and 17mm socket and take off that ugly ass stock handlebar. Save the nut and bolt.
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Put on that Battlescooter clamp.
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Pop on the gauge kit, use the two gaskets into the corresponding holes.
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Then put it all together!
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Final product, I think it looks sweet! Took it out for a quick ride around the block and everything was OK, so I think these instructions should work for you too.
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:D


Last edited by SpoonKiller on Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Junior Mint
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 10:25 pm 
That is super cool. And I don't say that about everything!

That is one of the mods I want to do, how much for the Bars?

Nice write up by the way...

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Zombies
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 10:48 pm 
kzuckus wrote:
That is super cool. And I don't say that about everything!

That is one of the mods I want to do, how much for the Bars?

Nice write up by the way...

Thanks!

The bars were $84 when you include the wasted $20 on the cheap bars I bought the previous day.... :D Get the bars you really want, I don't see doing this again, it's a quite a lot of work.


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Needs Training Wheels
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2005 8:25 am 
I've been itching to do that too. I'm glad you took the time to write this up. THANK YOU! Can't wait to put these bars on my ruck:

Image

Or these:

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Zombies
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2005 8:33 am 
Thanks Blues, it really wasn't difficult, I highly recommend it! One thing I've noticed though is that I may have jammed the grip on the throttle side a little too much in cause my throttle doesn't ease off as fast as it used to. So I may need to remove the grips and redo them and pay closer attention to where the grips and controls meet. :D


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Junior Mint
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2005 9:21 pm 
Cool, Blues!

I like the ones on the bottom mucho bien!

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Needs Training Wheels
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 5:49 am 
Thanks. I like both equally. The deal is that if I get the bottom ones they're more expensive, I have to order them, and in order for the ride to feel right I think I would have to get the lowered seat kit. If I get the chrome ones I only have to install them and keep the stock seat. I really dig the lowered look but I am worried about how it feels while riding. Does anyone have the low bars and lowered seat? What's your opinion on it?


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Donkey Puncher
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 10:04 am 
I would'nt use the carbon bars. They could get messy.

Spoon, more comfy? Looks better. Do the yzf grips mean you wish it was a yamaha?


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Zombies
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 10:13 am 
I like the riding postition a lot better. It's more like yours now where you naturaly lean forward more. I didn't see the R6 until I got home, I got them because they were carbon fiber, I don't know if I'm gonna keep them now....

:D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 2:04 pm 
blueshound17 wrote:
Thanks. I like both equally. The deal is that if I get the bottom ones they're more expensive, I have to order them, and in order for the ride to feel right I think I would have to get the lowered seat kit. If I get the chrome ones I only have to install them and keep the stock seat. I really dig the lowered look but I am worried about how it feels while riding. Does anyone have the low bars and lowered seat? What's your opinion on it?


I agree with Roboat about not using the carbon, all it takes is a hairline scratch and it will eventually fail catastorphicly. I recommend steel cause it'll bend alot before it fails. Aluminum is also iffy cause it also fails catastorphicly.

The lower handle bars gives a better riding postion for performance (better weight distribution) and a more natural feel.

When I choped my seat down it didn't feel right or comfortable. I'm 5'7", if you are taller I think it would really feel funny but if you are shorter it might feel better.

You could ask Smacky (foo) he is about my height and has the lower seat and lower handle bars too.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 2:28 pm 
Seems like eveyone takes the easy route and cuts into the old bar to get the cables out. I did it the hard way and disconnected all the cables to free'em from the bars.

I also drilled into the bars instead of file/dremel off the tabs on the lever mounts. In this case drilling was actually the easier way. Just make sure you use a center punch first so the drill bit doesn't wander. Originally I tried to break off the tabs with a flathead and hammer but that didn't work, it was stronger then I thought.

I kept the stock grips too. Used a pick, like the kind at the dentist, to get the grips off.


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Donkey Puncher
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:11 pm 
DaBinChe wrote:
Seems like eveyone takes the easy route and cuts into the old bar to get the cables out. I did it the hard way and disconnected all the cables to free'em from the bars.


where do you disconnect them? does that involve taking off and disconnecting the ecu?

i need help asap, the steering is all in pieces


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TR's Mad Scientist!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 7:40 pm 
SPOONZIRRA!! I'm all up in this and your how-to is my guiding light!!

SHINE ON!!!


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Habitual Offender
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:47 pm 
Dr.EZP wrote:
SPOONZIRRA!! I'm all up in this and your how-to is my guiding light!!

SHINE ON!!!


did you get the new bars on EZP?

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TR's Mad Scientist!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 10:52 pm 
jazzone wrote:
did you get the new bars on EZP?


Thanks to about 45 of you guys, my Ruckus is metamorphosising, I'll update my thread asap. :twisted:


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