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Habitual Offender
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 Post subject: D Screw-Y...
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 8:18 pm 
:arrow: Which way do I turn it, clockwise or counter? How much? Thanks.
Greg. 8)

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Iron Butt
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:28 pm 
My procedure....not exactly by the book (but since you don't have one??) :D
you really need a service manual, dude...it's more than an owner's manual, it's also like a map of your bike for a newbie?

Set idle at 1500 +or- 100 rpms....(but, you probably need a tach for this??) :?
or highly calibrated ears?! 8)

My way......use at your own risk!
(don't try this at home, kids!)

Anyway....once I get the idle set (by tach or ear), I screw the pilot screw (D-shaped air/fuel mix screw) out... counterclock-wise... until the rpms start to drop. Screw it back in until they reach max revs. This is where I leave mine and it is on the rich side of the adjustment range.
Reset the idle.

A variation that I used when it was new and still using the OEM air filter was screw it out till the revs drop, then count turns as you screw it in till the revs increase and keep counting turns until the revs drop again.... then screw it back out half the number of turns you just screwed it in.
You get the idea....halfway between rich and lean.
Reset the idle.

Neither of these are by the book!

and you really need to do it by the book unless you're hotrodding your bike......
all nasty disclaimers about voiding the warranty fully apply here!


The book says screw it in lightly until it seats.....not too hard or you'll bugger the pilot needle and seat! (which can create an imbalance in the matter-antimatter containment field and cause the Universe to implode!)...... :shock:
then screw it out a fixed number of turns (1-3/4, to be exact)......

now start the bike (it should be warmed up)......
turn the pilot screw back in until revs drop by 100 rpms (that damn tach again!)
(You're making it slightly too lean now.)
Then....turn the pilot screw out 1/2 turn....... (richen it up some)
Done!
Ummm, reset the idle?

This setting will be the EPA lean setting for the carb......
completely safe with a stock air filter, but definitely on the lean side.


High altitude adjustment for above 2000M.....
turn pilot screw IN (clockwise) 1/2 turn.

Yep, this is an even leaner setting for high mountains and it's much harder to find this exact high altitude adjustment point on the pilot screw, if you're running rich!
The specified setting assumes you're already running as lean as possible (which is not likely!)
The 1/2 turn in suggested by the manual probably won't be enough if you're running rich (have rejetted) or have the pilot screw adjusted to the rich side of the range (which is more likely!).
:D

if you plan on running your sea level BR in the mountains.........
Once you get it adjusted where you like it at low altitude, turn the pilot screw IN until the engine drops 100 rpms....
remember how many turns it took to do this and this is your new high altitude adjustment.

Don't wait until you're 2 miles high to do this adjustment.......
you'll never find the right point with your fat jetted sea level bike once you're at that altitude!
Determine it at sea level......
once you're at high altitude, screw the pilot in the number of turns it took to get a 100 rpm drop at low altitude......
you can make yourself stark raving mad trying to readjust the carbs' pilot screw on a fat jetted bike at high altitude. :pissed:


If you live and ride at high altitude all the time, you're probably jetted a little leaner to start with.......hopefully. :|

and of course, always reset the idle speed after any pilot adjustment and check it for quick return to idle after revving it lightly. :oops:

the thing is....the book is a great reference for general settings, but any mods you do to the air filter, air box, carbs, or exhaust will create a situation where a slight deviation from the book may give you better performance.

For newbies to tuning, my advice is.....
Stick to the book!

It will always be the safest setup (but not neccessarily the fastest or most powerful?)

ed

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Junior Mint
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:38 am 
as a note.

i finally got a long enough screwdriver. all i needed was a 1/4 clockwise turn of my idle speed and all my idle problems went away.


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Habitual Offender
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 Post subject: Delay...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 6:44 am 
:arrow: Thanks BRed. I think I am going to leave the D-screw alone. For now. Maybe if I can make it to a meet or ride where there are some smarter-er peeps than me, I can trade a couple of quickie adjustments for a brewskie and a joke! :beers: & :D. I do plan to tackle the valve adjustment, I'll just be careful to mark the factory settings...

Greg. 8)

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 Post subject: Re: D Screw-Y...
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 4:34 pm 
I stopped by the Honda dealer today and the tech turned the D-shaped air/fuel mix screw out 3/4 of a turn . It runs better and idles better which is a litter faster and smoother . When I'm stopped at a traffic light the idle while faster isn't moving me forward , so it's all right ? It seams right , before it was kind of choking instead of idling .

Also , when I was out today the winds were gusting like 50 MPH , I got some real blast from time to time and the Big Ruckus really surprised me on how well it stood it's ground . The weight and the low center of gravity works well in the wind shears .

TheReaper!

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Donkey Puncher
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 Post subject: Re: D Screw-Y...
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:02 pm 
X2 on the BRed pilot screw adjustment prodeedure. :banger:
...Mine never ran right untill I learned from the master...

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Shot Caller
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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 10:35 am 
BRed wrote:
The book says screw it in lightly until it seats.....not too hard or you'll bugger the pilot needle and seat! (which can create an imbalance in the matter-antimatter containment field and cause the Universe to implode!)...... :shock:
ed


so just how hard is too hard?

how can I tell if I did this. I tried my damnedest not to dammage anything. But I got these big ape-like arms and hands and sometimes I break bolts...

my "D" bit seemed a bitch to get matched up with the pilot screw and then it diddn't want to let go. as I turned the pilot screw in slowly while running I actually got it all the way in while running. the rpm's dropped hard about 1/4-1/8 turn from all the way in and then when the screw stopped it recovered some of the rpm's???

I couldn't seem to kill the bike with pilot 1-3/4 turns out and idle at 1500 then I couldn't get it to stumble too bad till I was really really backing the screw out. I could also not get the rpm's to climb to more than 1600 while adjusting.

Is it your opinion that I go back and start over getting her to 1600 (my max when following the book directions) and then leave it there? then go re-set my idle to 1500?

I think this is what you described in your procedure.

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Iron Butt
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 Post subject: Re: D Screw-Y...
PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 12:44 pm 
If your D socket is too large and dragging on the carb body, grind it down some.....
I reworked mine with a dremel tool. Normally I set the initial turns with the engine off.

It should kill the engine if you screw it in until it seats with the engine running.....
at least it did on every carb I've tried.

the only way it wouldn't is if the idle is set so high the butterfly is actually cracked open so air can flow around it?
the idea is at each end of the range of adjustment the revs Should drop as it goes from too lean to too rich.

To do the adjustment by Keihin's suggested method, which assumes the jetting will allow the proper range of pilot adjustment with no more than 2 full turns out from the starting position. If it takes more than two full turns out from the 1 3/4 turn starting position to bog the engine on the rich side, the carb is saying it needs a fatter (larger) pilot jet. A bigger pilot jet (also called idle or slow jet) will cause the engine to go rich with fewer turns of the pilot screw out from the seated position.

to do the adjustment by the BR manual method, you have to have a tach, since they want to see a 100rpm drop on each end of the adjustment range you set......
you can do it by ear by bumping the revs a bit (1800-1900) and then tuning for highest engine speed, then reset the idle.

remember to do small discrete 1/4 turn adjustments and then wait about 10-15 seconds each time for the change to take effect and the engine to restabilize to the change you just made, before proceeding.


when everything is right, you can blip the throttle a bit and the revs should rise then return quickly to the set idle speed without taking a long time to ramp down (too rich) or drop below the set idle speed then gradually climb back up to it (too lean)....it should just go back to idle rpm immediately, with no over shoot or under shoot.

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 Post subject: Re: D Screw-Y...
PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 7:08 pm 
--- red ape,,, take the pilot jet out and cut a slot across the D to fit a screwdriver. now you don't have to worry about the D driver working and you can adjust it with non-speciality tools. i demonstrated that mod at the honda place during Con... jimT :wasted:


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 Post subject: Re: D Screw-Y...
PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 5:02 pm 
good info thanks

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Habitual Offender
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 Post subject: Re: D Screw-Y...
PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 6:54 pm 
Used breds advice to set my carb with the larger jets and kn filter. This thing is so jumpy and more powerful I'm just amazed.

thanks bred for taking the time to put this info out when you did.


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