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Iron Butt
Iron Butt
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 Post subject: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 11:18 am 
It's simple:
remove the left side cover....try to do this through the access port on a hot engine and you will burn yourself.....many times!
(which is probably why Honda developed the Cold Adjust method?)

Mark the current setting on each adjuster quadrant.

Now, take your BR for a ride to warm it up........5-6 miles should do it.
Leave the engine running and put the bike on the centerstand.
Turn the idle up to about 1800-2000 rpm to make sure it doesn't die during the valve adjust procedure.

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picture credit... ChuckTuna

Use a 10mm to loosen the intake valve lock bolt....the adjuster quadrant will probably go wide open counter clockwise and the valve will Tic loudly!!!
Use a long thin screwdriver or needlenose pliers to rotate the adjuster quadrant clockwise.
The Tic will start to get quieter......continue until there is No Ticking.
Lock the 10mm bolt back down.

Now do the same thing for the exhaust valve (except its adjuster quadrant rotates in the opposite direction).
Turn the idle back down and take it for brief ride to check out the adjustment.

If needed go through the procedure a second time to refine the adjustment.



This procedure will give you a more agressive, higher performance valve clearance than the manual's method.
This is how Honda trained mechanics to do the valves on the 250 scoots with external adjusters.

If you have a mechanic's stethascope and are patient, you can get the valves set even closer for maximum topend performance.

Don't overdo it with the exhaust valve...... get it just to the point that there's no audible ticking.
The exhaust valve cools itself by dumping heat of combustion through the valve seat....
it needs a few extra microseconds of contact to cool properly.



This is the equivalent of doing "the Twirl method" on older pushrod bikes.....
zero clearance at the tappet, but the pushrod would still spin or "twirl".

The nice thing about doing a valve adjustment this way is, after the bike is broken in you only have to do it every 10,000-15000 miles......
and maybe not even then?

It doesn't change or drift and only the physical wear of the contact points in the valve train will alter the setting....sloooowly.
With zero clearance, there's no hammering on the rockers and rods, so wear is slow and it's a "set and forget" adjustment.


Warning:
If the bike is now very hard to start when cold, you may have gone too far and one of the valves is too tight.
.....do it again, but more conservatively this time! :D

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Iron Butt
Iron Butt
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 Post subject: Re: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:35 pm 
something I stumbled onto.....
this is the running engine valve adjustment for Hondas and clones with the external Elite/Helix/BR style valve adjusters:



As you can see from the video, you can do it faster than you can describe it......
make sure the engine is warmed up first.



And always mark your current setting!

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Junior Mint
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 Post subject: Re: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 11:38 am 
Hi guys, been a long time no-see, but yeah, valve adjustment on the BR is a snap compared to other two wheelers where you have to take off valve covers, adjust using a feeler gauge, etc. What a great bike. Mine just past 6K miles and no problems.

My best to all you BR folks.

Uncle Sponge

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Junior Mint
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 Post subject: Re: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 3:37 pm 
So this is the best bet? I have a used reflex so no clue IF it's been adjusted previously or not...


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Iron Butt
Iron Butt
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 Post subject: Re: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 6:49 pm 
The valves on this type of scooter are pretty stable........
once you get them set, they won't need any attention for 10s of thousands of miles.

but if it's performance is off for any reason, it's a good idea to reset the valves.

You cannot check them.....you can only reset them.

The hot running method is much easier to do than the cold static method, in my opinion....
you don't have to worry about aligning the TDC timing mark and cam chain timing mark and you don't have to guess about when you feel "resistance" or how much each graduation on the scale is.....
just set it to where it just stops or is just barely "ticking".

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Junior Mint
Junior Mint

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 Post subject: Re: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 6:40 pm 
i followed your instructions on valve adjustment and it worked great. Had a big brush pile and needed to set it on fire but diesel fuel, propane, gasoline would not work. cranked up the 06 BR and circled the brush pile really fast and it ignited with total burn. It is fast off the line and down the road. My 06 BR rocks big time. Thanks for the info. The Total Ruckus site is the best.

CanyonDan the Super Ruckus Man


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Junior Mint
Junior Mint

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 Post subject: Re: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:26 am 
..... uh yeah....
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did yours come with the flux capacitor too? how's the year 2085?
welcome to the crowd, ruck on!


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CANADIUS MAXIMUS
CANADIUS MAXIMUS
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 Post subject: Re: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:05 am 
^^^.....lookit the noob welcoming the noob..... :banger: ..... :lol:

.....thats a boy Tom,...you catch-on quick!..... :banger:

:canuck:

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Junior Mint
Junior Mint

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 Post subject: Re: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:13 am 
Great advice. No problem adjusting the upper, but I wasn't able to get a socket or wrench on the lower because the thick frame bar is in the way. Tried 3/8" and 1/4" sockets but not enough clearance to get it on the nut head cleanly. Advice or other method?


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Iron Butt
Iron Butt
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 Post subject: Re: Hot engine valve adjustment, with engine running
PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 4:42 pm 
how about a 10mm open end wrench...... :D
actually I bought one with an internal ratchet box end on one end and an open end opposite it, just for this tight spot.

It's thin enough to leave on the bolt head while you pry the adjuster to the right spot, if you removed the left side panel.
Its almost impossible to do the exhaust valve right if you're reaching through the tiny carburetor access port on the left side.

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