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Habitual Offender
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 Post subject: Re: Vino 125 Front Brake pad replacement tutorial
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:37 pm 
Hey cool! Glad to hear I could help and that there's a good tutorial on the rear brakes.

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2007 Vino 125 (build thread = viewtopic.php?f=95&t=51675 )
1984 Honda Aero 80 (Sold)


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Needs Training Wheels
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 Post subject: Re: Vino 125 Front Brake pad replacement tutorial
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 1:06 am 
ojaiscoot wrote:
ditto, nice job spoolboyy on the tutorial. My installation went without a hitch. One thing though...I loosened the rotor which made fitting the contraption a cinch. BTW there is a good tutorial over on the Yahoo Vino 125 group on changing out the rear shoes. Haven't done it yet, but evidently you only need to loosen the muffler.

Beers


Ahh, good news. Thanks for the info! I'll be doing the front brakes tomorrow. When I took the bike into the shop today to get the rear wheel replaced with my Michelin S1 tire, the tech confirmed:

1. Rear drum brakes are actually fine. Thanks Spool for giving me the info about the front needing replacement typically 3x more than the rears. That's a good rule of thumb.

2. The front brakes need replacements soon.

Can't wait to use this tutorial! Thanks so much again. This is cool. Great contribution to the forum.

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Pics, videos, mod installations, experiences, product reviews @ http://96mpg.blogspot.com/


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Needs Training Wheels
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 Post subject: Re: Vino 125 Front Brake pad replacement tutorial
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 11:21 am 
Thanks again for the billionth time for the tutorial! I love it. I just completed the brake installation and am still in the garage. About to take it out for a spin but wanted to say a few words before I do that and post additional pics.

OTHER TOOLS I FOUND HELPFUL:


Image

1. A piece of wood. I didn't have your medium sized clamp thingy, my c-clamp didn't really work, so I just used a piece of wood to push the caliper in by hand. It wasn't too difficult. You don't have to use a piece of wood. You can literally use anything that's flat that won't cut your hand. I'll show how it's used in another photo to follow.

2. Thread lock - the blue stuff.

3. Torque wrench. The spec is 11lbs for the 12mm bolts. 11lbs didn't seem like enough so I torqued it a bit higher just by turning the bolt further until I felt it was tight. Be sure not to do it so tight that you strip the threads.

TotalRuckus seems like it's in good shape, but just in case it dies, I wanted to still have a backup tutorial. I remember how disappointed I was that all the content from Scootertime was wiped out last month. Ouch. Anyway, I blogged my installation with more detailed info and pics, http://96mpg.blogspot.com/2011/07/front-brake-pad-installation.html

If you're wondering where the grease needs to go, it's on the inside of the circle you see here. You don't have to necessarily fill the circle since the caliper is a hollow ring. It's only the perimeter that you need to have grease. I personally greased the whole @#$@$ thing b/c I didn't want to be picky about exactly where the grease went. You can call it lazy.
Image

Here's the piece of wood being used on the caliper. Basically squeeze the caliper on either side with the piece of wood and the caliper should recess in.
Image


In case you haven't used threadlock before, it's pretty simple. Just dribble a bunch around it along the length of the threads.
Image

MORE TIPS?
- Neither Spoolboyy nor I took pics of it, but you can use the flathead screwdriver to space the pads as you're inserting the entire L-bracket back onto the rotor. Just be sure to be gentle. You don't want to scratch the pad itself or it may wear unevenly.

- Don't put the grease on the wrong side like I did. If you do, just wipe it off thoroughly. Ooops.

- When you put the pads in, be sure to do it just as Spoolboyy showed in his photo. I can see how easily it could be put in the wrong direction and still fit. The semi-circular curved part of the pad faces away from the L-bracket.

- Here are the torque specs from the Yamaha Service Manual but. All you really need to know is that the 12mm bolt should be torqued at 11ftlbs which is not all that tight. I tightened it more. Don't do it so much that you run the risk of stripping threads. On that note, screw the bolts on by hand initially before using the ratchet. This'll help you get a feel of the fitment and avoid stripping the threads.

Image

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YSS Adjustable Rear Shock | Brake light flasher | JDM front signal lights | JDM rear signal lights | JDM rear brake light | LED front strobe light | HID?

Pics, videos, mod installations, experiences, product reviews @ http://96mpg.blogspot.com/


Last edited by zoomie888 on Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Habitual Offender
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 Post subject: Re: Vino 125 Front Brake pad replacement tutorial
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:13 pm 
Nice additions! This fills in some of the gaps in the original tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
- A

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n00bie


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 Post subject: Re: Vino 125 Front Brake pad replacement tutorial
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 12:01 pm 
Thanks for the tutorial! I just replaced the pads and other than my not paying attention to the pad orientation, it was a breeze. Thanks for documenting. Much appreciated!

Marlin


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Habitual Offender
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 Post subject: Re: Vino 125 Front Brake pad replacement tutorial
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:30 pm 
Marlin wrote:
Thanks for the tutorial! I just replaced the pads and other than my not paying attention to the pad orientation, it was a breeze. Thanks for documenting. Much appreciated!

Marlin


Glad to hear this was useful to someone again. Seeing your one post, I can't help but assume that you are new here. Post up some shots of your vino in the gallery post. Welcome aboard.

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1984 Honda Aero 80 (Sold)


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n00bie


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 Post subject: Re: Vino 125 Front Brake pad replacement tutorial
PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 9:03 pm 
Not to thread necro, but for posterity I wanted to make a couple corrections.

But first, thanks OP and zoomie for your write ups. very helpful.

However, the torque spec mentioned by zoomie888 (11 ft-lbs for 12mm bolts) is incorrect. Page 4-15 of the service manual gives the following specs:

a. Caliper bracket bolts (2 x 12mm, silver colored): 25.3 ft-lb, 35Nm
b. Caliper brake pad bolt (1 x 12 mm, gold colored): 15.9 ft-lb, 22Nm


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Needs Training Wheels
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 Post subject: Re: Vino 125 Front Brake pad replacement tutorial
PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:33 am 
Thanks much for this tutorial. I can hear my front brakes making a bit of noise as I drive, probably as a result of an accident I was involved in. I replaced the rotor but not the pads and I feel they are probably damaged from the crash (100% the other driver's fault). Stay safe!


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Needs Training Wheels
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 Post subject: Re: Vino 125 Front Brake pad replacement tutorial
PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 3:34 pm 
This is an excellent tutorial. The pictures are accurate and appropriate. All you need to know is here. Here is my update. I completed the task and test drive in about 40 minutes. Found out the my wreck caused the caliper brake pad bolt to bend. The bend caused a slight misalignment and wore my old brakes (2000 miles) to no pad remaining. Replaced that bolt with a new one ordered from bikebandit and all seems well. My master cylinder returned to the very full level. I think one can use the level indicator on the master cylinder to roughly estimate how much pad is left. If the brake fluid level gets near the "Min"imum mark you should consider replacing the pads or at least inspect them.


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