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Shot Caller
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:37 am 
Honda4Life wrote:
I solder THEN heatshrink. 99% of people won't even see the details but at least I know it myself......
Makes it run better!
Hahahahaha!

I do this too. It's much cleaner and I know that both wires are connected.

The negative part I know is it is more expensive and it take more time.

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Junior Mint
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 6:30 am 
Reviving a great thread here -

Doesn't drilling holes in the frame weaken it's structure?

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TR Ride of the Month!
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 6:42 am 
dont drill a crazy amount of holes.

the main holes drilled for most people are:

front frame at the top of the neck (1 hole)
inside the original factory motor mount area (4 holes)
in the rear frame towards the rear for the engine harness wires (1 hole)
in the seat frame for the taillight and anything else under your seat (1 hole)

there are other holes some people will drill for even more sexiness. I imagine weight and how you ride will determine how reliable your frame is. I havent had an issue yet and I have more holes than listed above. Just don't get too big with them and dont put like 40 right next to eachother and you should be fine.

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Donkey Puncher
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:12 pm 
GETSlim wrote:
FYI....soldering will only become brittle and break over time..

all solder joints break at the very point the solder stops..
and it the solders wicks up the wire...then that only increases the risk of a fracture..



I've been working in the auto repair industry for 10 years... I've always been told, solder, then heat shrink.

Are you telling me I can get away with twisting them together and heat shrinking them?

Any advise from a guy who wires race cars trumps anything I may have learned earlier in my life!

Time saver for sure! Thanks man!

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The Carburetor Boys
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:04 pm 
No..I'm not saying that twisting and heatshrink is the way to go..
all I said was soldering causes the wire to become brittle at the point the solder stops..
There are 2 types of improper solder joints: hot solder and cold solder..
hot solder is what causes the solder to wick up the wire past the actual joint and causes resistance in the lead itself due to prolong heat from the iron on the joint
cold solder is when the solder joint have the proper heat transfer from the iron to the piece receiving the solder which in turn also creates a high resistance situation..

The only time I ever soldered was when the joint was then filled and sealed in a potting compound that prevented any sort of movement on that wire after the solder has ended..any movement of that wire is not compromising the solder joint..

Now in an automotive audio or scooter application..I'm sure most of you will be fine..
but when it comes down to multi-million dollar sponsors and winning or losing because of a broken wire..
well I just go off my ISO 9001 military spec training

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Last edited by GETSlim on Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:11 pm 
So if we're not soldering and then using a potting compound, what should we do that you learned in your ISO9001 military training?

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The Carburetor Boys
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:16 pm 
Here is an example of what I did to my Ruckus stock fuel pump when I soldered the wires to it so I could use a Autosport connector on it and then plug into my new harness I made for the GET

Image

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The Carburetor Boys
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:21 pm 
WonderBread wrote:
So if we're not soldering and then using a potting compound, what should we do that you learned in your ISO9001 military training?



I recommend the proper crimp connector and the proper crimp tool for that crimp..
the reason why most crimps fail is because they are crimped using the wrong tools..
heatsinking these connections make them as durable and waterproof as you would if you were soldering

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Robomod wrote:
Just dont be a pussy, and you wont run into assholes.
tunahs tune and ruckas tuck
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:23 pm 
GETSlim wrote:
WonderBread wrote:
So if we're not soldering and then using a potting compound, what should we do that you learned in your ISO9001 military training?



I recommend the proper crimp connector and the proper crimp tool for that crimp..
the reason why most crimps fail is because they are crimped using the wrong tools..
heatsinking these connections make them as durable and waterproof as you would if you were soldering

Good to know :highfive: I usually use sleeve connectors followed with heat shrinking

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He's running our pipe. Either it made too much power and spun the rear, or was so loud he went blind and crashed.... 50/50.


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The Carburetor Boys
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:42 pm 
Here is my new harness and tuck into the rear frame I never finished until I could do it the real way I wanted to by using Autosport connectors like on all the cars I wire up for racing


$$$$$$$$$$$$$ right here

Image

Drilled the frame so running harness..rear brake and throttle cables was easier..actually gained length with the cables by going this route as well

Image

This is the main run on the new harness...I used gauge sizes ranging from 18ga to 22ga on this entire harness..nothing larger due to the terminal sizes in the connectors used on the rear frame..
You can also see the type of twist I use to make all my wire looms with at work..which is then wrapped with kevlar twine to further prevent vibrations between the wires themselves before its wrapped using Raychem heat sleeving

Image

A shot of the left side has one side of the harness thru the frame..the right side was tighter because it contains more wires..

Image

This is the final look that I was going for using Autosport connectors in the frame..
I also relocated my kill switch and start button under the seat..
Note the HYS box ;)

Image

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Just dont be a pussy, and you wont run into assholes.
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Ride Game Participant
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 1:52 pm 
Quote:
my learning curve allows for back pedalling on previous statements.

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Junior Mint
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 12:42 pm 
solder with ONLY enough to hold the wire..

solder joint breaks are usually when you add so much solder that it doesn't flex.. and it breaks

-joe

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Donkey Puncher
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:09 pm 
GETSLIM, are the holes you drilled in the side of the neck for the throttle and brake lines? Did you do one on each side? id love more pics if you have them.

And, if you did a center hole in the neck where the casting marks are for the harness, what size hole did you end up running?

I'm cleaning up my triple tree after polishing the front frame. I have up to a 1" bit for my air drill, and a couple sizes of UNIBITs. The harness is not in same place as frame, that's why I ask. :wasted:

I'm just about ready to bring it home from work and start the wire tuck.

I hadn't even considered cables.... :banger:

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TR Ride of the Month!
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 Post subject: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 10:22 pm 
Version, just FYI in my tuck, I did two smaller holes on the left side. One for brake and one for throttle. Was nervous to do one large hole for both but either should work. I also tried to drill in between any of the cross castings so the frame still had as much rigidness as possible.

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Donkey Puncher
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 Post subject: Re: wire tuck tips and tricks
PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 11:07 pm 
ruckhero wrote:
Version, just FYI in my tuck, I did two smaller holes on the left side. One for brake and one for throttle. Was nervous to do one large hole for both but either should work. I also tried to drill in between any of the cross castings so the frame still had as much rigidness as possible.


Awesome! Thanks for the tip!
Did it affect the cable lengths? Like GETSLIM?
I still have to try to route my cables.... Seems I'm in a constant assemble-reassemble situation, lol! It will probably be taken apart and mocked up at least three more times before paint! :wasted:

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