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 Post subject: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 8:24 pm 
Yeah... its a gutsy move for a noob to TR, but I can't help myself since I've been building custom scoots for a while now, and no one else seems to have the cajones to actually post this.

First, I want to start by thanking Bluesmoke, kwyut, and everyone else for doing all the hard work of determining what does what and how to avoid the big pitfalls of doing a GY6 (or other swap). That being said, I am going refer you to read the How to’s for some of the nitty/gitty details (with a couple of changes as I’ve found to make things work).

Second, since each since Ruckus harnesses vary by year and a GY6 bike can be different in terms of wiring colors, I’m going to specify wires by either function and/or by operational voltage (either AC or DC), NOT COLOR. Each GY6 manufacturer follows the same schematic for function, but I swear they pick whatever color is on the floor or whatever they have the most of to make it work.

Third, I apologize for the lack of pics. I’m drawing up a schematic in Illustrator as we speak, but I’ve got a lot of other balls in the air, so it's likely to be delayed a while.

Finally, for the HATERS who don’t want this posted, quit trying to hold a monopoly on what anyone with a high school kid’s understanding of electrical physics can accomplish. Choice words are left out for the children’s sake.

Ok let’s start off by explaining some things, in case you’re rusty. A Ruckus IS NOT a GY6. This means that you’ll have to do A LOT of changing functions to make things work RIGHT (making your blinkers do hazards is entertaining until you mean to turn left at a light with oncoming traffic). Fundamentally speaking, the CDI in a Ruckus is a much bigger beast than the CDI of a GY6. Think of the Ruckus CDI as a rudimentary ECU. As such, almost every switch at some level is controlled by or through the ECU on a Ruckus, whereas on a GY6 a switch is just a switch.

So, before you begin, you’ll need to mark what each wire does on your GY6. To find your bearings, I suggest looking at bluesmoke's posting: http://totalruckus.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=23567&hilit=what+wire+does+what.

Then look at http://www.scootusa.com/docs/4stroke_wire.jpg

ASSUME THE COLORS WILL VARY FROM THE ABOVE. The idea here is for you to label the wires with some masking tape, so you don’t get stupid real fast, or lost because there are three green wires that do different things, or you have a pink wire instead of a blue/yellow.

NOTE: Take extra time with your GY6 Harness to identify (by multi-meter is best) what wire does what and/or determine the voltage load on each wire when the bike is RUNNING! I’ll be referring to some of these numbers as we go, and you get real mired up in the crud if you don’t take this time early on.
Then, get real familiar with your Ruckus wiring schematic: (use the point and click feature for your year model)

http://totalruckus.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=33433&p=495328&hilit=ruckus+wiring+diagram#p495328
NOTE: To bypass the CDI/ECU of the Ruckus we will need ignore some of the features of the harness. As such, focus your attention to the wiring colors AT the controls and lights. We get to create everything else in the middle using the GY6.

Before you begin NOTE:
a) We will not be using the temperature sensor in the speedo.
b) We will use a vacuum operated fuel pump instead of the electrical one.

Once you’ve studied up a bit, here’s your first steps:
1) Label each GY6 wire by function or voltage
2) Label each Ruckus plug pair to match.
3) Remove the Ruckus harness (include ECU in removal) at the plugs. Keep the LED Drive unit on the frame.
4) Remove the GY6 wiring harness as a complete unit (lights and all)
5) Drop the motors from the respective frames.
6) Install your GY6 motor into the Ruckus frame. There are a million ways to do this one. I just used some JB Weld and 100mph tape. >:)
7) Follow the 4-into-2 wire set up guidelines posted by kwyut
http://totalruckus.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=28558&hilit=ruckus+radioshack
Use the GY6 fuse block between the battery and the switch. You can, I believe, ignore poles 2, 4, and 6.
8 ) Ground the motor using a ring terminal on the valve cover and some extra wire.
9) Turn the key ON and check to make sure you have proper voltage at the switch (~12v DC on red, red/green, and black).


The Starter Solenoid Set-up
10) Connect the lead12v DC CONSTANT pole to the battery with a 12AWG wire MINIMUM. FYI: I ran an 8AWG just to make sure that power was getting down there.
11) Connect the opposite pole to the starter.
12) Connect one wire of the two signal wires (doesn’t matter which one) to your braking light wire (green/yellow on an ’06+ Ruck).
13) Connect the last wire leading to the solenoid to a starter button wire (I used the green/yellow wire to keep my head straight).
14) Connect the other starter button wire (if you used green/yellow in #11, you’ll use yellow/green) to ground.
15) Connect the black brake wire on the handlebars to the black wire on the ignition switch.
16) Turn the key ON to test the circuits. When you pull either brake handle, you should get 12v DC at the junction.
17) Attempt to turn the bike over by holding the brake level and pushing the start button. If the bike ATTEMPTS to turn over, you have succeeded , and move on to #18. If not, repeat steps 10-17 again… and this time, GET IT RIGHT!

Stator/Rectifier/ CDI/ Ignition coil/ Auto Choke Set-Up
18) Connect Ground wires to ground (there will be one at the rectifier, one at the stator, one for the coil, and 1+ at the CDI.)
19) Connect 12v AC to 12vAC wires (multiple) between rectifier and the stator. Where possible, combine like colors to avoid confusion.
20) Connect 12v DC at the rectifier to the fused battery link. Connect it such that the link is between the battery and rectifier.
a. If you have a black 12v DC wire on your rectifier, connect this wire to 12v DC black after the switch.
21) Connect crankshaft position sensor and stator power wire (USUALLY blue/white and red/black, respectively) to the corresponding CDI wires.
22) Connect the coil power wire to the CDI and coil.
23) Connect the last CDI wire to the black/white kill switch wire (‘06+ Ruckus).
24) Connect the black/red kill switch wire to the red/green key switch wire.
25) Connect the auto choke ground wire to ground.
26) Connect the auto choke power wire to 12v AC.
27) Attempt to turn the bike over by holding the brake level and pushing the start button. If the bike successfully starts and runs, you’re almost done!

Peripherals, etc.
28) Connect the black 12v DC switch wire to the following:
a. turn signal flasher
b. black left hand control wire
c. Stock Speedometer black wire
d. Nominal brake light (dim light)
29) Connect the following to ground:
a. Green/black light wires (used in brake, turn signals, and speedo)
b. Green/Orange Headlight wires
c. Black/brown horn wire
d. Any LED ground
e. High beam indicator green/orange
30) Connect grey left hand control wire to the flasher unit.
31) Connect Left (Orange) and right (light blue) lights to left hand unit.
32) Splice Turn signal indicator lamp unto corresponding wire. Turn ignition to ON and ensure proper operation.
33) Connect White left control to headlights white (low-beam).
34) Connect Blue left control to headlights blue (high beam).
35) Connect left control black/brown to 12v AC. Test to ensure proper operation of hi and low beam with bike running).
36) Connect left control Lite green to horn. Test for proper operation.
37) Connect hand level green/yellow junction wire to bright brake light. Test for proper operation.
38) Connect Fuel Sending Unit (tank float) signal (blue/white) to led Drive unit (blue/white) and to resistor (20w 68 Ohm) blue/white.
39) Connect LED drive unit and Resistor Black to 12v DC accessory power
40) Connect ground green/black on sending unit and module plug to ground


Last edited by Doubledeuce on Fri May 29, 2009 2:21 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 6:36 am 
sweeeeeet!!! only wish i didnt have to research mine when i did it lol :banger:

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 7:27 am 
Tell me about it! After a week and a half of going, "Oh God, I don't want to do this...." that was immediately followed up by a botched effort (hazard lights, starter button controlled main power, kill switch was useless etc.), I finally took time off and sat in my garage with a dry erase board, a GY6 schematic, a Ruckus schematic, and beer and followed current from each and every switch until I knew what did what and how.

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 8:53 am 
Doubledeuce wrote:
Tell me about it! After a week and a half of going, "Oh God, I don't want to do this...." that was immediately followed up by a botched effort (hazard lights, starter button controlled main power, kill switch was useless etc.), I finally took time off and sat in my garage with a dry erase board, a GY6 schematic, a Ruckus schematic, and beer and followed current from each and every switch until I knew what did what and how.


yup. I did that 2 years ago and it still haunts me. I didn't even have a really proper wiring schematic b/c all the china bikes had alarms then. It's not real bad if you take time to do it, and understanding how the CDI and stator work really helps to diagnose it when it breaks. Things like turn signals aren't really a big deal to wire, but some of the charging and ignition stuff is kinda foreign..


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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 9:00 am 
Very true. I basically rewired everything with Home Depot 14 AWG. They had like 7 colors in 20' rolls, and it was better quality that the GY6 wires, so I opted the road of putting the ends on the bike first and then cable dogging through the chassis holes. It cost more, but it eliminated the whole alarm system issue, as well as other length of wire issues with the GY6 harness.

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 2:47 pm 
So did you scrap the entire ruckus harness for this project and just used the ruckus connectors to retain some of the stock features such as hand controls and brake lights etc...


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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 4:03 pm 
Exactly. The Ruckus ECU runs 90% of the harness, and the ECU is useless for a GY6 swap. Therefore, the harness, short of the connectors needed to operate lights, controls, and the iginition are useless.

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 5:07 pm 
Hey I was reading through your list of connections again and see this
24) Connect the black/red kill switch wire to the red/green key switch wire.

I am not seeing any wires on the Gy6 harness that are Red/Green. Can you elaborate please?

THANKS :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 5:51 pm 
nice job. but why not keep the fuel reserve light? its an easy hook up and is helpfull. you also dont need the ECU for this.

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 7:05 pm 
Quote:
Hey I was reading through your list of connections again and see this
24) Connect the black/red kill switch wire to the red/green key switch wire.

I am not seeing any wires on the Gy6 harness that are Red/Green. Can you elaborate please?

THANKS
Hey I was reading through your list of connections again and see this
24) Connect the black/red kill switch wire to the red/green key switch wire.

I am not seeing any wires on the Gy6 harness that are Red/Green. Can you elaborate please?

THANKS :lol:


Red/Green is the Ruckus Key wire leading to kwyut's Radioshack switch. Good call on asking first.

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 7:08 pm 
Quote:
nice job. but why not keep the fuel reserve light? its an easy hook up and is helpfull. you also dont need the ECU for this


Ah mainly b/c I had no idea how the sensor operated voltage, etc. I was on an empty tank when I did wiring, and haven't had a chance to fill the tank yet.

If you'd care to divulge said task, I'll be happy to edit the original post! :)

Good looking out! :banger:

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 8:34 pm 
taken from another thread.
RESISTOR (metal resistor attached to left of the module)
BLUE/WHITE - connects to BLUE/WHITE on Float and Module
BLACK - connects to BLACK on module plug and connects to accessory power (12v)

MODULE (black box below highbeams lamp and fuel LED)
BLUE/WHITE - connects to BLUE/WHITE on sender and resistor
GREEN/BLACK - connects to GREEN/BLACK on float and both are grounded
BLACK - connects to BLACK on resistor and both are run to accessory power (12v)

SENDER (fuel sending unit that sits in tank and has grey plug)
BLUE/WHITE - connects to BLUE/WHITE on module plug and resistor
GREEN/BLACK - connects to GREEN/BLACK on module plug and are grounded

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 6:03 am 
Paranoid:

Thanks for the correction. Does that read correctly?

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 6:39 am 
Thanks for doing this write up! This ought to be helpful, I'm about to do my swap :banger:

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 Post subject: Re: GY6 Swap harness onto Stock controls
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 9:35 am 
good job

i still don't know why these wiring swaps are so hard to some people. I guess wiring comes natural to me. lol


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